Historic Cafés of Madrid: From Literary Tertulias to La Movida

Madrid is a city where history is not just preserved in museums, but actively brewed into the fabric of daily life. For well over a century, the Spanish capital has been defined by its bustling cafés and pastry shops. These establishments served as the epicentres of political debate, literary creation, and the famous tertulias—lively social gatherings that helped shape the nation’s culture. From ornate 19th-century coffeehouses favoured by royalty to the retro 1970s hubs that fueled modern cultural revolutions, exploring Madrid's historic cafés offers an authentic and relaxed perspective on the city's rich past.

You can visit and explore the neighborhoods where these legendary cafés are located by joining our walking tours.

Café Gijón: Writers, Spies, and Literary Awards

Shortly after opening its doors in 1888 on Paseo de Recoletos, Café Gijón established itself as the beating heart of Madrid's cultural and literary scene. Its elegant rooms welcomed illustrious thinkers, politicians like José Canalejas, and even the legendary spy Mata Hari. The establishment made such an impact on Spanish culture that it inspired twelve books, including Francisco Umbral’s La noche que llegué al Café Gijón, and it lends its name to an esteemed literary award presented annually since 1950.

Today, the traditional bohemian gatherings have largely given way to a clientele of civil servants, businesspeople, and local celebrities. Although it sits slightly beyond the immediate historic centre at Paseo de Recoletos, 21, the café remains a compelling stop for travellers wishing to experience a historic atmosphere that has survived for over a century.

Hotel Palace Café-Bar: Hemingway and Civil War History

While not a traditional street-side café, the café-bar inside the Hotel Palace served as an exclusive meeting point for the capital's elite. Established in 1912 at Plaza de las Cortes, 7, it emulates a classic late-19th-century English bar, featuring fine wood, leather armchairs, and a warm fireplace. Wealthy entrepreneurs and writers gathered here to converse and debate. One of its most famously loyal patrons was Ernest Hemingway, who frequently stayed late into the night enjoying cocktails and gin and tonics.

Beyond its luxurious atmosphere, the hotel holds deep historical significance. During the Spanish Civil War, the Hotel Palace was repurposed as a makeshift hospital to treat wounded soldiers arriving from the front lines, and its first floor even housed the Soviet Union's embassy for a year. Travellers exploring these turbulent eras on a 20th-century Madrid walking tour will find this venue a fascinating piece of the city's wartime puzzle.

Café Comercial: Historic Gatherings at Glorieta de Bilbao

Located at Glorieta de Bilbao, 7, Café Comercial has been an illustrious Madrid institution since 1887. Over its 120-year history, its massive mirrors have reflected the faces of renowned literary figures like Antonio Machado and Camilo José Cela. The café became famous for its lively tertulias, where journalists from nearby newsrooms would gather to dissect the news and rumours circulating through Madrid.

Time seems to stand still in this celebrated establishment, where waiters still know their regulars by name. Following a brief closure in 2015, Café Comercial underwent extensive renovations to refresh its look. Fortunately, its essence was meticulously protected by heritage authorities, ensuring that original architectural elements remain intact for modern visitors to enjoy alongside a quiet coffee.

El Riojano: Royal Connections and Traditional Sweets

Founded in 1855 at Calle Mayor, 10, El Riojano is an iconic pastry shop featuring a fascinating salon that serves coffee, herbal teas, and traditional sweets. The business was established by the personal pastry chef of Queen Maria Christina of Habsburg. The original décor—which remains virtually unchanged today—was crafted by Royal Palace artisans using mahogany, bronze, chandeliers, and marble.

Interestingly, El Riojano’s massive furnishings, including its grand counter, were constructed directly inside the shop so they would be too large to fit through the door, a clever deterrent against theft. Legend states the Queen herself frequently visited to enjoy the pastries. Today, it remains an excellent spot to sample over 30 traditional handcrafted Madrid sweets, including bartolillos, meringues, and Rosquillas de San Isidro, all made using generational recipes.

Malasaña’s Cultural Awakening: Café de Ruiz & Café Manuela

Long before vintage décor became a global trend, the Malasaña neighbourhood saw a 1970s revival of classic conversational cafés. Café de Ruiz, located at Calle de Ruiz, 11, was founded by a group of friends hoping to recreate the city’s historic social hubs. Retaining its original small round tables and wood-framed mirrors, it is well known today for its signature White Russian cocktail.

Nearby at Calle de San Vicente Ferrer, 29, the unmistakable red facade of Café Manuela has been a neighbourhood fixture since 1979. It became a vital venue during Madrid's cultural awakening, hosting concerts and poetry readings that drew figures like Pedro Almodóvar and Carmen Martín Gaite. Visitors looking to tailor a private custom tour of Madrid's alternative districts will find these vibrant venues essential for understanding the city's late 20th-century cultural rebirth.

Whether you are tracing the steps of acclaimed writers, sampling century-old pastry recipes, or seeking out the retro charm of local cultural hubs, Madrid’s historic cafés provide a welcoming refuge from the busy streets. They are much more than places to grab a quick drink; they are living institutions that preserve the conversations, creativity, and community spirit of the Spanish capital. Stopping at any of these legendary spots guarantees a memorable and authentic addition to your Madrid itinerary.